Heat insulationAccording to the needed heat insulation different structures of the insulation are possible. Full insulation between the beams or insulation with ventilation. When the insulation is with ventilation usually two layers of insulation material are used – one between the beams and continuous second layer below them. For the attachment of the second layer horizontally on the beams laths are installed on the width of the insulation material. To avoid the condensation in the insulation material the usage of steam barrier made of PE or aluminum foil is strongly recommended.Fire resistance
For the furring fire resistant boards are used. For fire resistance – F30 single layer and for high fire resistance – F60 double layer.
For the construction are needed CD 60/27 channel profiles with not more than 50 cm distance between them. Easy fixing and leveling is possible with direct hangers. The boards are placed with their longitudinal edges across the construction and are fixed with self – drilling screws on every 17 cm.
Full insulation between the beams
In case of full insulation between the beams their whole height is used for heat insulation. As a load bearing subconstruction for the fire insulation boards, right behind the beams, using direct hangers the metal CD 60/27 channel profiles are fixed. Roof slopes with ventilation
The best performance is the one with 4-5 cm ventilation above the insulation material.
The necessary second layer is attached to the construction crosswise under the beams.
CD 27/60 channel profiles are fixed and leveled by direct hangers. The distance between the axis is 50 cm. The boards are placed with their longitudinal edges across the construction and are fixed with self – drilling screws on every 17 cm. Furring with fire resistant boards is highly recommended.
Finishing drywall has three steps to it:
1) Filler Coat:The surface of the boards is cleaned and the joints are filled with jointing compound DERZTEK. It is strongly recommended the usage of glass fiber joint tape, no matter the type of the joint filler. This increases two times the strength of the connection and is the best protection against cracks. When dry, the surpluses of jointing compound are removed with sandpaper. Sand with 120 or 150 grit Sanding Paper.
2) Second Coat: The joints are coated and sanded a second time 24 hours after the first coat.
3) Finish Coat: After another 24 hours, for perfectly smooth surface SATENTEK might be used. If done properly, this last coating should have no need of sanding.
Tip: In order to work from easiest joints to hardest, follow this order for applying the joint compound: start with nailheads, then valley joints (the longitudinal joints), inside corners, outside corners, and lastly the butt joints.